Extreme Wave Height Events in NW Spain: A Combined Multi-Sensor and Model Approach

Pablo Lorente,Romain Rainaud,Silvia Piedracoba,Cristina Toledano,Ana Basañez,Lotfi Aouf,Enrique Álvarez-Fanjul,Vicente Pérez-Muñuzuri,Jose García-Valdecasas,Arancha Amo-Baladrón,Alice Dalphinet,Ernesto Barrera,Marta De Alfonso,Marcos Sotillo

doi:10.3390/rs10010001

Abstract

The Galician coast (NW Spain) is a region that is strongly influenced by the presence of low pressure systems in the mid-Atlantic Ocean and the periodic passage of storms that give rise to severe sea states. Since its wave climate is one of the most energetic in Europe, the objectives of this paper were twofold. The first objective was to characterize the most extreme wave height events in Galicia over the wintertime of a two-year period (2015–2016) by using reliable high-frequency radar wave parameters in concert with predictions from a regional wave (WAV) forecasting system running operationally in the Iberia-Biscay-Ireland (IBI) area, denominatedIBI-WAV. The second objective was to showcase the application of satellite wave altimetry (in particular, remote-sensed three-hourly wave height estimations) for the daily skill assessment of the IBI-WAV model product. Special attention was focused on monitoring Ophelia—one of the major hurricanes on record in the easternmost Atlantic—during its 3-day track over Ireland and the UK (15–17 October 2017). Overall, the results reveal the significant accuracy of IBI-WAV forecasts and prove that a combined observational and modeling approach can provide a comprehensive characterization of severe wave conditions in coastal areas and shows the benefits from the complementary nature of both systems.

Highlights

IntroductionIts wave climate is one of the most energetic in Europe, with the mean available power flux reaching approximately 45 kW·m−1 [1,2]
The Galician coast facing the Atlantic on the northwestern corner of the Iberian Peninsula (Figure 1a) is a region that is strongly influenced by the presence of low pressure systems in the mid-Atlantic Ocean and the periodic passage of storms that give rise to severe sea states (Figure 1b).As a consequence, its wave climate is one of the most energetic in Europe, with the mean available power flux reaching approximately 45 kW·m−1 [1,2].Since it is a region with intense maritime traffic, a comprehensive characterization of the significant wave height (Hs) events is required in order to underpin efficient operations, minimize the associated risks, and increase marine safety in coastal waters
A preliminary accuracy assessment of Galician high-frequency radar (HFR)-derived wave data has been conducted for January–February 2014 (Figure 2), when a number of extreme wave height events (Hs above 10 m)

Summary

Introduction

Its wave climate is one of the most energetic in Europe, with the mean available power flux reaching approximately 45 kW·m−1 [1,2] Since it is a region with intense maritime traffic, a comprehensive characterization of the significant wave height (Hs) events is required in order to underpin efficient operations, minimize the associated risks, and increase marine safety in coastal waters. In this context, a multi-platform methodology based on the synergistic integration of wave model predictions and a variety of in situ and remote sensed observations could constitute a useful approach to properly portray the ocean state and its variability.

Objectives

Results

Discussion

Conclusion