Extreme surfing: Personal and psychological aspects of big wave riders

Abstract

This qualitative study investigated personal and psychological aspects of big wave riders. A cross-sectional design with non probability purposive sampling was used to gain personal interviews with 32 elite surfers who regularly ride big, life threatening waves. Each athlete was asked three open questions: 1. What do you think are the most important qualities and attributes a surfer needs for riding big waves? 2. What type of mindset is best for riding big waves?, and 3.What motivates you to ride big waves? Content analysis of the taped interview transcripts revealed seven key qualities and attributes including having a thrill seeking, confident and goal oriented personality, a high level of mental strength and control, and an intimate relationship with the ocean. The best mindset included an individually defined arousal level, a committed attitude, and a simple, yet highly aware, focus. Motivations were primarily intrinsic, though drives indicative of a behavioral addiction to the act of riding big waves also emerged. Evidence of common developmental stages for riding big waves also arose from the interviews. Optimal mental approach and preparation techniques are discussed that will enable big wave riders, and other extreme athletes, to more safely and successfully manage extreme situations.