Abstract

The principal goal of this study is to get some preliminary insights about the intensity of water movement generated by wind waves, and due to the currents in the bottom waters of Gulf of Gdańsk, during severe storms. The Gulf of Gdańsk is located in the southern Baltic Sea. This paper presents the results of analysis of wave and current-induced velocities during extreme wind conditions, which are determined based on long-term historical records. The bottom velocity fields originated from wind wave and wind currents, during analysed extreme wind events, are computed independently of each other. The long-term wind wave parameters for the Baltic Sea region are derived from the 44-year hindcast wave database generated in the framework of the project HIPOCAS funded by the European Union. The output from the numerical wave model WAM provides the boundary conditions for the model SWAN operating in high-resolution grid covering the area of the Gulf of Gdańsk. Wind current velocities are calculated with the M3D hydrodynamic model developed in the Institute of Oceanography of the University of Gdańsk based on the POM model. The three dimensional current fields together with trajectories of particle tracers spreading out of bottom boundary layer are modelled, and the calculated fields of bottom velocities are presented in the form of 2D maps. During northerly winds, causing in the Gulf of Gdańsk extreme waves and most significant wind-driven circulation, the wave-induced bottom velocities are greater than velocities due to currents. The current velocities in the bottom layer appeared to be smaller by an order of magnitude than the wave-induced bottom orbital velocities. Namely, during most severe northerly storms analysed, current bottom velocities ranged about 0.1–0.15 m/s, while the root mean square of wave-induced near-seabed velocities reached maximum values of up to 1.4 m/s in the southern part of Gulf of Gdańsk.

Highlights

  • The knowledge on the size and structure of surface currents in the sea is much more advanced than the knowledge on current fields in deep sea and, in particular, near sea bottom

  • The main results of this study are computed fields of bottom velocity resulting from wind wave and currents during extreme wind conditions

  • The numerical wave and current models applied in this study are forced with meteorological REMO reanalysis data, which has been extensively validated and proved to be of a good quality and able to simulate a state of atmosphere with confidence

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Summary

Introduction

The knowledge on the size and structure of surface currents in the sea is much more advanced than the knowledge on current fields in deep sea and, in particular, near sea bottom. With the growth of a wide variety of human activity in the coastal zone, the demand for a good diagnosis of the bottom current values is very desirable. The velocities of these currents depend on the transfer processes of mass and momentum, and energy, but above all, on the forcing that occur in the layer of interaction with the atmosphere. The general aim of this study is to assess the kinematics of water particle motion in the bottom layer at transitional water depths characteristic for the sea areas beyond the surf zone, shallow enough for the wavy motion to reach the sea bottom during extreme storm events

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