Exploring traditional cosmetic flora from Comoros islands: An ethnobotanical survey in Mayotte

Abstract

Mayotte is located in the Indian Ocean and is home to more than five languages, cultures and lifestyles. However, due to rapid urbanization, this traditional knowledge is at risk of extinction. Moreover, ethnobotanical studies on the pharmacopoeia and cosmetopoeia in Mayotte are almost nonexistent. This study was carried out to document the traditional knowledge of Mayotte's cosmetopoeia. The main objective of this study was to document the diversity of cosmetic plants used by the Mahoran community. We conducted field surveys from 2021 to 2022 in 14 communes of “Grande Terre”, the largest of the two islands from Mayotte. A total of 35 experts (fundi) were interviewed in this study. Individual interviews with Mahoran informants using open questions were conducted, and voucher specimens were collected for each plant species cited. A total of 470 cosmetic formulations, representing a total of 1777 URs, were recorded. Each formulation contains 1 to 13 ingredients, with a predominance of single-ingredient recipes. In particular, hygiene, makeup, fragrance, hair and nails, and dermatology are the most cited cosmetic categories. A total of 83 plant species were identified and the five most cited plant species were, in decreasing order: Cocos nucifera (273 URs), Jasminum nummulariifolium (191 URs), Ocimum spp. (120 URs), Curcuma longa (105 URs), and Lawsonia inermis (101 URs). This study is one of the first to focus solely on the exploration of cosmetopoeia in Mayotte, contributing to the preservation of knowledge and the promotion of customs related to traditional cosmetics on this island. Further studies should be performed on some highly cited plant species endemic to the area (e.g., Jasminum nummulariifolium, Pandanus maximus) to confirm their interest for the cosmetic industry and thus contribute to the economic growth of Mahoran people.