Abstract

Abstract. The sea waves are the up and down movements of water in the sea. The various heights of sea waves are known as significant wave heights. Each type of wave has their own characteristics based on their significant wave heights. The aim of this research is to explore spatio-temporal wave patterns and their effects on Tok Jembal coastal areas. For this study, the monthly wave data were obtained from the satellite altimeters that have been processed using Radar Altimeter Database System (RADS). The Self Organizing Map (SOM) method was used to extract the spatio-temporal wave height patterns from the monthly wave height data. From the clustering results, six number of clusters were extracted and then each of these clusters was categorized into specific type of wave heights. In addition, time series of Landsat satellite images were used to observe the coastal changes at Tok Jembal areas. Finally, we analyzed the effects of spatio-temporal wave patterns towards the occurrences of coastal erosion along the coastal areas. This study has discovered that the wave heights along the coastal areas fall in slight category and showed less effects on the erosion. From the visual interpretation of time- series images (10 years gap) also proved that the erosion can be considered as moderate. Overall, this study could benefit the coastal management especially for shoreline monitoring where early action can be taken when there are signs of erosion along the coast.

Highlights

  • Waves at the surface of the ocean are among the most impressive sights that nature can offer

  • The wave data were produced from the satellite altimeter using Radar Altimeter Database System (RADS) program

  • The results obtained from the clustering process are shown in

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Summary

Introduction

Waves at the surface of the ocean are among the most impressive sights that nature can offer. We can notice that the waves are changes all the times. It is mainly caused by wind blowing across the surface of the ocean (Kudela, 2006). Waves form as wind blows over the surface of open water in ocean, causing the waves to moves in various directions, wavelength, height and period. These behaviors will be resulting different types of wave patterns (Balasubramanian, 2016). Each of the wave patterns has their own characteristics which can be grouped according to the wave height in meter (Table1)

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