Evidence for sediment recirculation on an ebb-tidal delta of the East Frisian barrier-island system, southern North Sea

Abstract

The Otzum ebb-tidal delta, located between Langeoog and Spiekeroog islands along the East Frisian barrier-island coast, southern North Sea, was investigated with respect to its morphological evolution, sediment distribution patterns and internal sedimentary structures. Bathymetric charts reveal that, over the last 50 years, the size of the Otzum ebb-tidal delta has slightly shrunk, while sediment has accreted on the ebb-delta lobe to the east of the main inlet channel (west of Spiekeroog). Swash bars superimposed on the eastern ebb-tidal shoal (Robben Plate) have migrated south or south-eastwards, i.e. towards the inlet throat. The main ebb-delta body is composed of fine quartz sand, whereas the superimposed swash bars and the inlet channel bed consist of medium-grained quartz sand containing high proportions of coarser bioclastic material. Internal sedimentary structures in short box-cores (up to 30 cm long) are dominated by flood-oriented cross-beds. Longer vibro-cores (up to 1.5 m long) show that, at depth, the sediment is dominated by storm-generated parallel (upper plane bed) laminations with intercalated shell layers and dune cross-bedding. The cross-bedded sands in both box-cores and vibro-cores from the ebb-delta shoal predominantly dip towards the south or southeast, indicating transport towards the inlet throat by the flood current. The observations demonstrate that, contrary to previous contentions, the sediments of the highly mobile swash bars do not bypass the inlet but are instead being continually recirculated by the combined action of tidal currents and waves. In this model, the cycle begins with both fine and medium sands, including shell hash, being transported seawards in the main ebb channel until they reach the shallow ebb-delta front. From here, the sediment is pushed onto the eastern ebb-delta shoal by the flood current assisted by waves, becoming strongly size-sorted in the process. The medium sands together with the shell hash are formed into swash bars which migrate along arcuate paths over a base of fine sand back to the main ebb channel located south of the ebb delta. By the same token, the fine sand between the swash bars is transported south-eastwards by the flood current in the form of small dunes until it cascades into the large flood channel located to the west of Spiekeroog. From here, the fine sand is fed back into the main ebb channel, thus completing the cycle. No evidence was found on the ebb delta for alongshore sediment bypassing.