Abstract

Microwave hydrothermal treatment was selected to extract valuable fractions with bioactive and gelling properties from Evernia prunastri lichen with potential for topical applications. The impact of the extraction processing conditions on the soluble extracts, mucilage fraction and residual solid phase was analyzed within a lichen global valorization approach. A particular stress was made on the thermo-rheological and structural characteristics of the extracted glucan and galactomannan polymers, the corresponding gelled matrices, and their cosmetic feasibility. Results revealed that the proposed microwave-assisted treatment showed a relevant influence on the phytochemical features of the aqueous soluble extracts, accounting the major protein content at 120 °C and the enhanced antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase properties at 140 °C. Extracts at 200 °C showed the highest anti-inflammatory (COX-1 and COX-2 inhibition) efficacies. The biopolymer analyses indicated that those recovered after lichen hydrothermal treatment at 160 °C featured a good extraction performance, the highest molecular weight, apparent viscosity, and antiproliferative potential. The thermo-rheological properties of the corresponding matrices formulated at 10 % and 60 or 80 °C exhibited the strongest and most thermo-reversible characteristics, as well as antifreezing feasibility. Another advantage of the selected fractions was the absence of skin irritation according to the in vitro skin irritation assay.

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