Evaluation of Molecular Structure in Each Processing Step of Cashmere Fibers Based on IR Spectroscopy

Abstract

In this paper, we propose a molecular structure in each processing step of cashmere fibers that by using an IR spectroscopy. When manufacturing cashmere fiber products, hand touch quality and strength often decrease. In order to clarify the cause, cashmere fibers of each process were obtained from Mongolia. Absorption spectra of cashmere fiber can be measured by ATR method in IR spectroscopy. In the washing process, no change in molecular structure was shown and only wool grease was removed. The measured spectra were waveform separated and the molecular structure of the cashmere fiber was analyzed. In the cashmere fibers of each process step, there was no change in a helix and β sheet of the secondary structure of the protein. The cashmere fibers in the bleaching and decoloring process steps showed an increase in cysteic acid by the oxidation-reduction reaction. Therefore, the cause of the decline in the quality of cashmere fiber products was chemical treatment in bleaching and decoloring process. This result is applied as a quality evaluation method in the manufacturing process of cashmere textile products.