Evaluation of Anti-Photoaging Effects of a Novel Cosmeceutical Containing a Retinoids Mixture Using In Vitro Cell Models

Nicola Zerbinati,Stefania Guida,Cristina Maccario,Daniela Dalla Gasperina,Maria Chiara Capillo,Serena Di Francesco,Sabrina Sommatis,Elsa Liga,Roberto Mocchi,Edoardo D’Este,Raffaele Rauso

doi:10.3390/app11219992

Abstract

Physiological ageing due to the passing of time and prolonged exposure to harmful sun rays generate wrinkles and reduce skin elasticity. These visible and clinical signs can be prevented or reversed by known strategies, such as the daily use of cosmetic products with antioxidant combinations or retinoids. A new dermocosmetic formulation enriched with a complex of retinoids, called RETINOIDS SERUM, was investigated through in vitro assays using human skin cells. The experiments were carried out to assess the anti-ageing activity in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). After the preliminary MTT assay, the proliferation together with the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers was performed on NHDF cells after 24 h treatment with the two non-cytotoxic concentrations. Using UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, the measurement of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) levels was also investigated. In vitro studies show that the dermocosmetic product improves collagen and elastin synthesis and the renewal of dermal fibroblasts. Moreover, a reduction in the MMP-1 secretion was also highlighted in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. These results suggest that the cosmetic formulation containing functional compounds such as retinoids can be useful to prevent the natural sign of ageing.

Highlights

The skin, whose main role is to defend the body from external agents, presents an important role that cannot be underestimated: feeling young and healthy, which helps in the social context [1]
We investigated the in vitro effects of a new formulation produced by Matex Lab Spa, containing vitamin A derivatives in a mix that included 0.1% of retinol, 0.1% retinaldehyde, and 1% of bioretinol, using human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT)
Since the proliferative capacity of fibroblasts is frequently associated with the production of the extracellular matrix (ECM) complex, we studied the serum effect on the synthesis of collagen and elastin proteins

Summary

Introduction

The skin, whose main role is to defend the body from external agents, presents an important role that cannot be underestimated: feeling young and healthy, which helps in the social context [1]. This protection can be compromised with ageing due to reduced epidermal thickness and increased in wrinkles and dryness. Radiation, pollution, or chemical exposure are more associated with environmental stressors (extrinsic events) All these factors lead to gradual but cumulative alterations where the formation of wrinkles, loss of elasticity, thinning of the skin, and roughness are some examples. ROS induce the activation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) cascade and the transcription factor named activator protein-1

Methods

Results

Discussion

Conclusion