Ethnobotany and pharmacognostic perspective of plant species used as traditional cosmetics and cosmeceuticals among the Gbaya ethnic group in Eastern Cameroon

Abstract

With the growing demand for plant genetic resources in cosmetics industries, traditional herbal cosmetic knowledge is becoming a potential resource for innovation and economic development. However, despite the abundant ethnobotanical literature in Cameroon, the use of plants as cosmetics among ethnic groups has only been poorly investigated. This study was conducted to assess the traditional herbal cosmetic knowledge of the Gbaya ethnic group in the Eastern Cameroon. An ethnobotanical survey using a questionnaire was carried out and 59 Gbaya people aged between 20 and 90years were interviewed. A total of 36 plants belonging to 26 families have been documented for their use as cosmetics or cosmeceuticals. The different cosmetic preparations were made from various plant parts of a single plant, or multiple plants, the seeds being the most frequently used organ (26.36% of citations). All these plants are known for their use to manage multiple skin, hair or teeth problems. Among them, Elaeis guineensis, Carica papaya, Aloe vera, Citrus limon and Baillonella toxisperma are the top five most frequent species. A total of 78 cosmetic recipes have been recorded including facial masks and scrubs, body cream, hair cream, and preparation for teeth hygiene and dandruff. The pharmacognostic review of these plants shows that they all contain diverse phytochemicals like enzymes, minerals, vitamins, alkaloids, phenolic compounds, steroids, saponins, glycosides, carbohydrates, coumarins, lecithin, and essential oils that are all active cosmetic ingredients.This study shows that the Gbaya people in East Region of Cameroon use various recipes for their tooth hygiene, skin and hair care. Promoting their sustainable use and the equitable sharing of benefits is a pathway for harnessing the conservation of these plants and the local development.