Abstract

Malays are well-known for their appealing and distinctive sartorial. A “tengkolok”, or headdress, is the subject of reference. There are several terms for this headdress, such as tanjak, destars, setanjak or bulang ulu. The tengkolok is a Malay men's adornment and a symbol of their identity. It can be shaped in a variety of designs using only a piece of triangular-shaped fabric. Each of these designs is enhanced by its own folding and binding techniques to appeal captivating. Almost every state that adopts the monarchical system in Malaysia has its own distinctive tengkolok fashion. Although there is an equivalent name to the tengkolok, it however has different styles. Perak Darul Ridzuan, a state in Malaysia has its own tengkolok own design. Therefore, this paper aims to investigate on how the nature’s pulchritude influences the design of the Perak state heritage tengkolok. The authors use a qualitative descriptive research method with a cultural approach to explain this. Data collection methods such as interviews and observations were used to collect written and visual data. According to the findings of the study, there are eight different designs of tengkolok in the Sultanate of Perak. These eight designs are divided into two categories: tengkolok designs that are still in use and tengkolok designs that are no longer in use. This paper will discuss the influence of nature in three tengkolok designs that are still in use today, namely Ayam Patah Kepak (APK), Helang Menyusur Angin (HMA) and Getang Pekasam (GP). Literature about the design of the tengkolok that is still in use can provide an opportunity for the younger generation to recognize the Malay cultural heritage, particularly the tengkolok in the Perak Sultanate. This literature also serves as an effort to appreciate and preserve the efforts of the Malay tengkolok artisans.

Highlights

  • Clothing is a tool or cultural art produced by humans as a daily necessity

  • Almost every state that adopts the monarchical system in Malaysia has its own distinctive tengkolok fashion

  • According to the findings of the study, there are eight different designs of tengkolok in the Sultanate of Perak. These eight designs are divided into two categories: tengkolok designs that are still in use and tengkolok designs that are no longer in use

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Summary

Introduction

Clothing is a tool or cultural art produced by humans as a daily necessity. Clothing is used for the purpose of protecting oneself from atmospheric conditions and conveys the value of decency as well as denotes symbolic meanings. Tengkolok is a part of the Malay men's attire that has existed since ancient times. Tengkolok is an adornment with a distinct design and meaning. According to Abdul Jalil (2018), the tengkolok is a head covering cloth or know as a decoration to hide the forehead. Each state in Peninsular Malaysia that adopts the monarchical system has its own tengkolok design. This tengkolok is known by a variety of names, including tanjak, setanjak, bulang hulu, sapu tangan, setangan, setangan kepala, semutar, destar and jastar (Aziz, 2006; Ismail, 1997). According to Mat (1982), the variety of names for this tengkolok is does not deviate from original meaning which is a kind of headdress. The tengkolok's beautiful design is the result of a fabric binding technique that is created and improved based on one's status and refined to enhance its beauty over time (Ahmat, 2012)

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