Abstract
The offending speech is a recurring tool in the fashion phenomenon. This is supported by the fact that fashion places the new always as an improved version of what is laid today. Based on the concept of avant-garde applied to the arts, whether to show (a) how the discourse of paradigms break can function as a veneer trying to disguise stereotyped and prejudiced discourses and (b) that the avant-garde texts developed by fashion bring a complex aesthetic which produces a major breakdown of the relationship of individuals with their ways of consuming, proposing a new kind of symbolization of the opinion/be at the expense of manufactured ethos. Through a hermeneutic analysis, this study aims to investigate some aesthetic of contemporary fashion campaigns and editorials in order to exemplify “texts” acting in proposing new masculinity formats in order to identify maintenance meanings of social norms or more real attempts cutting-edge speeches. As an analytical tool, the Depth Hermeneutics is applied (HP), developed by Thompson (2011), the theoretical contributions about the consumer and their meanings developed by Lipovetsky (2007, 2009), Baudrillard (1972, 1976, 1981), art and culture studies (Bourdieu 1975, 2014) and also from feminist, queer and masculinity theories (Fuss, 1999; Butler, 2003). Keywords: fashion phenomenon, avant-garde aesthetics, consumption, culture, masculinities.
Highlights
Tendo em vista a estrutura patriarcal que rege grande parte dos fenômenos culturais que são percebidos no cenário global atual, é latente a necessidade por discursos que consigam estabelecer novas “falas”, de modo a dar vazão às novas possibilidades de identidades dos sujeitos contemporâneos
A moda de vanguarda, neste trabalho, ganha enfoque a partir da percepção a respeito das masculinidades, compondo discursos mais ou menos adequados em campanhas e editoriais fotográficos
O motivo de analisar esse todo complexo das imagens (inclusive de modo integrado, compondo uma única reinterpretação para cada imagem), e não somente as vestes, é o de reforçar o sentido da relação da moda com a sociologia e o fenômeno da cultura
Summary
Tendo em vista a estrutura patriarcal que rege grande parte dos fenômenos culturais que são percebidos no cenário global atual, é latente a necessidade por discursos que consigam estabelecer novas “falas”, de modo a dar vazão às novas possibilidades de identidades dos sujeitos contemporâneos. A moda de vanguarda apresenta uma nova relação com a cultura, de modo a questionar os valores estabelecidos pela normatividade – seja na forma que é apresentada ao público, o design dos produtos e, inclusive, o tipo de tecnologia aplicado.
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