Estimating Directional Wave Spectra Properties in Non-Breaking Waves from a UAS-Mounted Multi-beam Lidar

Abstract

Abstract Wave spectra and directional moment measurements are of scientific and engineering interest and are routinely estimated with wave buoys. Recently, both fixed-location and Uncrewed Aircraft System (UAS)-mounted lidar have estimated surfzone wave spectra. However, nearshore wave statistics seaward of the surfzone have not been measured with lidar due to low return number and nearshore directional moments have not been measured at all. We use a multi-beam scanning lidar mounted on a gasoline-powered UAS to estimate wave spectra, wave slope spectra, and directional moments on the inner shelf in ≈ 10 m water depth from an 11-min hover and compare to a co-located wave buoy. Lidar returns within circular sampling regions with varying radius R are fit to a plane and a 2D parabola, providing sea-surface and slope timeseries. Wave spectra across the sea-swell (0.04–0.4 Hz) are robustly estimated for R ≥ 0.8 m. Estimating slope spectra is more challenging. Large R works well in the swell band and smaller R work well at higher frequencies, in good agreement with a wave buoy inferred slope spectrum. Directional Fourier coefficients, estimated from wave and slope spectra and cross-spectra, are compared to a wave buoy in the sea-swell band. Larger R and the 2D parabola-fit yield better comparison to the wave buoy. Mean wave angles and directional spreads, functions of the directional Fourier coefficients, are well reproduced at R = 2.4 m and the 2D parabola-fit, within the uncertainties of the wave buoy. The internal consistency of the UAS-lidar-derived results and their good comparison to the Spotter wave buoy demonstrate the effectiveness of this tool for estimating wave statistics.