ESG approach in the valorization of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) by-products by subcritical water: Application in the cosmetic industry

Abstract

In this research valorization potentials of cocoa hull extracts in cosmetic industry, following Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) criteria, have been investigated and reported, presenting increased value of this biowaste. The extracts of cocoa hull obtained by subcritical water were characterized in respect to chemical composition and certain bioactive properties, and were used to develop functional cosmetic formulation. In this work cocoa hull of cocoa beans originating from different geographical locations (Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo, Grenada) were extracted by subcritical water to obtain functional extracts rich in valuable compounds. The extracts were characterized in respect to their total proteins (10–27%), total phenols (37–45 mg GAE/g) and total flavonoids (14–21 mg RE/g) contents. In addition, the minerals K (41–60 mg/100 g), Na (0.78–1.17 mg/100 g), and Ca (2.47–5.94 mg/100 g) were also quantified. Antiradical activity against DPPH (IC50 ∼ 11–13 μg/ml) and ABTS (IC50 ∼ 7–9 μg/ml) radicals, as well as total antioxidant activity (∼14–20 mg EAK/100 g DE), were determined and compared for all extracts. The extract with the highest antioxidant and antiradical activity was used for the formulation of a functional cosmetic product – a day cream with sun protective properties and added qualities. The prepared facial cream was analysed in respect to basic quality parameters for cosmetic products, proving the safety of the newly developed product based on subcritical water extracts of cocoa hull. The application of subcritical water extraction, as a green technology, can significantly enhance the ESG development in the cosmetic industry.