Equipment for High Altitude Mountaineering, with Special Reference to Climbing Mount Everest

Abstract

IN climbing Mount Everest, high altitude may be said to begin at 22,000 feet when the North Col is approached from the east. Although there is no sharp line of demarcation between what constitutes low and high altitudes, I select the above figure for the following reasons : Firstly, all the strongest and most physically fit members of the Ex? pedition are of the opinion that at 21,000 feet (Camp No. 3) one's physical functions are practically unimpaired, and good sleep and recuperation from fatigue are possible ; but at 23,000 feet (North Col), owing to the altitude, one's physical functions are impaired; sleep becomes fitful, in some individuals the appetite falls off, and there is a general loss of physical fitness. The conclusion may therefore be drawn that in the case of the most favoured individuals acclimatization to altitude ceases between 21,000 and 23,000 feet. Secondly, up to a height of 22,000 feet, snow and ice conditions approximate very closely to summer conditions in the Alps ; above 22,000 feet, however, the state of the snow resembles that met with in mid-winter in the Alps. This high-altitude zone may be further divided into two sub-zones?the first from 22,000 feet (foot of the steep snow and ice slopes leading up to the North Col) to 23,000 feet, and the second from 23,000 feet onwards. The first zone is protected by the North Col from the prevailing westerly wind, whereas the second is fully exposed. Equipment for First Zone.?Oxygen should be used from the foot of the North Col slopes onwards. No useful purpose is served by tiring oneself through not using oxygen, when, as we have seen, full recovery from fatigue is no longer possible at 23,000 feet. Clothing somewhat warmer than that used in the Alps in summer is quite sufficient. A solar topee is advisable as protection against the sun, and Crookes' glasses of smoke-blue colour afford complete protection from glare without causing eyestrain and subsequent headache. It is also advisable to wear a veil or similar protection, and not to expose the hands to the rays of the sun. Sunburn is invariably followed by a con? dition of feverishness which cannot but impair one's fitness.