Enhanced Skin Performance of Emulgel vs. Cream as Systems for Topical Delivery of Herbal Actives (Immortelle Extract and Hemp Oil)

Vanja M Tadić,Svetolik Maksimović,Almut Frank,Ivana Nešić,Ana Žugić,Milica Martinović,Milica Stanković

doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics13111919

Vanja M Tadić, Svetolik Maksimović + Show 5 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics13111919

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Abstract

Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.

Highlights

IntroductionItalicum (known as immortelle) plant, belonging to the family Asteraceae, is a shrub which is used in phytomedicine throughout the Europe, in Mediterranean countries
The effects of the investigated samples of active cream with immortelle extract and hemp oil (AC) and active emulgel with the same active components (EM) on the skin parameters of healthy volunteers were investigated in relation to the appropriate placebo formulations (PAC and Placebo emulgel (PEM)) and appropriate control, i.e., non-treated skin site (NC)
In this in vivo study conducted on healthy human volunteers, we examined the effects on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil

Summary

Introduction

Italicum (known as immortelle) plant, belonging to the family Asteraceae, is a shrub which is used in phytomedicine throughout the Europe, in Mediterranean countries. Extracts of the aerial parts of this plant are used as antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antiallergen agents, for the treatment of respiratory diseases and different skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis, and inflammatory conditions of the skin, as well as for protection against lipid peroxidation caused by oxidative stress [1,2,3,4]. Extracts of H. italicum are used in cosmetic industry, as ingredients of fragrances or in preparations for the protection of sensitive and irritated skin. It is considered that beneficial effects on the skin are due to the high flavonoid, coumarin, phenolic acid, acetophenone, and α-pyrone derivative content in the plant [5]. As a matter of fact, during the last decade, significant attention has been paid on the activity of arzanol, phloroglucinol α-pyrone, for the first time isolated

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