Abstract

Based on a large amount of published laboratory results, reliable models axe developed for computing the average rate of energy dissipation in regular and irregular breaking waves. The average energy dissipation rate is assumed to be proportional to the difference between the local mean energy density and stable energy density. Wave height transformation is computed from the energy flux conservation law based on the linear wave theory. The models are examined and verified extensively for a variety of wave and bottom conditions, including small and large scale laboratory and field experiments. Reasonable good agreements are obtained between the measured and computed wave heights and root mean square wave heights.

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