El chile tabiche: memoria, reencuentro y acción comunitaria en Santo Domingo Tomaltepec, Oaxaca, México

Abstract

Chile tabiche, a cultivariety (variety defined by a cultural context) of the species Capsicum annuum var. annuum L., was consumed in the community of Santo Domingo Tomaltepec in the Central Valleys of Oaxaca until approximately 70 years ago; however, it fell into disuse in recent decades. Through the story of the loss and reencounter of chile tabiche in this community, we reflect on the role of memory in re-establishing networks of use, knowledge, and value. This work is carried out within the context of Cocina Colaboratorio, a project that seeks to strengthen food sovereignty in three communities in Mexico, including Santo Domingo Tomaltepec. In a transdisciplinary way, the collective uses the kitchen table as a metaphor for horizontal exchange, collaboration, and community action. This research ran from the summer of 2021 to the summer of 2022 and materialized through semi-structured conversations and activities designed from art and participatory action research. According to older women in the community, chile tabiche was grown in nearby fields and was an essential ingredient in daily life and celebrations. Our research found that this chili pepper is still produced and consumed in the Sierra Sur of Oaxaca. Thus, we planned a series of events with the community for a reencounter and to be able to share it with women who already knew it and younger generations who had not tried it. This study seeks to highlight the nuances of loss and value, not as something definitive but as a network that can be rewoven in different ways. This contributes to critical discussions on the heritage boom by presenting an example in which memory can be a tool for action and where flavors, practices, and narratives can be reformulated and re-appropriated to reclaim identities.