Efficacy of a topical serum containing L-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, pycnogenol, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid in relation to skin aging signs.

Abstract

Skin aging is a process regulated by chronological aging and amplified by exposome factors including chronic UV exposure and pollution, which both induce reactive oxygen species. Topical antioxidants have the potential to counteract this process and to improve skin aging signs, including wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. To evaluate the efficacy of a topical antioxidant serum containing 15% L-ascorbic acid, neohesperidin, Pinus pinaster bark, tocopherol, and hyaluronic acid (HA) ex vivo on air pollution-induced pigmentation and gene expression, as well as in vivo on skin aging signs in Brazilian volunteers, after 90days of use. Ex vivo human skin samples were repetitively exposed to Diesel Exhaust Particles (DEP) and subsequently analyzed for changes in pigmentation and gene expression. Clinical efficacy was evaluated in 40healthy adult females with phototype II to IV and visible photoaging signs, including facial hyperpigmentation, through dermatological evaluation and instrumental analysis including Reflectance Confocal Microscopy. Ex vivo, the topical antioxidant serum significantly reduced DEP-induced skin pigmentation and expression of proinflammatory genes. A significant improvement of skin aging signs was observed after 90days. Local tolerance was good. The tested serum is effective in protecting human skin ex vivo against air pollution-induced skin pigmentation/aging and reduced in vivo skin aging signs, with a good safety profile after 90days of daily use.