Abstract
This is the first study to compare the effects of isometric vs. dynamic core training and characterize core-training adaptations using climbing-specific performance and core strength tests in elite climbers. The aim of the study was to compare the effects of attending a progressive core-training program on climbing performance. 19 advanced and elite climbers (7.3±5.6 years climbing experience, red point skill grade 19 IRCRA) were randomized into a dynamic (DCT) or isometric (ICT) core training group and trained twice weekly for ten weeks. The climbers were tested using two climbing-specific core tests (body lock-off and body-lift) and four non-specific core strength tests—one dynamic (superman) and three isometric (trunk flexion and trunk rotation left and right). Between group comparisons showed no differences between the groups at post-test (p = 0.328–0.824) and neither group demonstrated greater improvement compared with the other (p = 0.300–0.926). The ICT group demonstrated 10.8% and 29.6% improvement in trunk flexion and body-lift (p = 0.029–0.037 with no improvement in body lock-off and rotation (p = 0.101–0.343). The DCT group demonstrated 5.0–14.9% improvement in the core strength tests (p = 0.012–0.043), a non-significant 33.8% improvement in body-lift (p = 0.100) and no improvement in body lock-off (p = 0.943). In conclusion, none of the training groups demonstrated greater improvement than the other and both dynamic and isometric core training improved climbing-specific test performance. Dynamic training was slightly more favorable although not significantly superior to isometric core training in improving core strength.
Highlights
In indoor climbing competition, a route consists of 20–50 holds and takes 2–7 minutes to complete at intensities ranging from 71–91% of maximum heart rate [1,2,3]
The dynamic core-training program (DCT) group demonstrated improvement in three isometric core tests and in the dynamic core-strength, there was no improvement in two climbing-specific core tests
The isometric core-training program (ICT) group improved in isometric trunk flexion strength testing and a climbing-specific test, involving dynamic trunk and hip activation, with no improvement in the trunk rotation or body lock-off tests
Summary
A route consists of 20–50 holds and takes 2–7 minutes to complete at intensities ranging from 71–91% of maximum heart rate [1,2,3]. In recent decades, climbing performance measured by the difficulty rating of routes, has greatly improved in Sport Climbing World Cup series. A comparison of two core training regimes climbing performance mostly draws on experience-based knowledge, cross-sectional studies [4, 5] and a few intervention studies conducted in climbing [6, 7]. Several cross-sectional studies have reported strength and/or endurance in the fingers, body composition and relative upper-body strength as the most important physical factors predicting climbing performance [4, 5]. The most frequently used tests (Bent-arm hang, Dead-hang and finger strength) relate to climbing-specific actions, and the relative contribution of anthropometric factors (height, weight, body fat) and climbing experience and flexibility have been examined.
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