Abstract
The optimized settings of quality adjustment pulley (QAP) and couliering are highly desirable to obtain precise stitch length (SL) values on acceptable state of fabric. The study was aimed to explore the type and number of knit fabric defects occurred due to different yarn input tensions (YIT)adjusted through machine setting. A single jersey fabric was knitted in a circular knitting machine with positive storage feeding system. The yarn delivery rate was maintained by different QAP disk diameter with four central couliering settings. The YIT, SL, and 4-point fabric inspection (ASTM 5430-07) were determined using an MLT WESCO yarn meter, aHATRA course length tester (BS 5441:1988), and a fabric inspection machine respectively. Bivariate regression analysis between QAP disk diameter vs. YIT and YIT vs. SL were conducted as well as the relationship among YIT, fabric defect types and the defects points per 100 m2 fabric was observed. YIT was altered in three different ways, and this resulted four types of fabric defects-drop stitch, hole, run, and press-off. Among these defects, drop stitches and holes were more prominent.@font-face{font-family:Vrinda;panose-1:2 11 5 2 4 2 4 2 2 3;mso-font-charset:0;mso-generic-font-family:swiss;mso-font-pitch:variable;mso-font-signature:65539 0 0 0 1 0;}@font-face{font-family:Cambria Math;panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;mso-font-charset:0;mso-generic-font-family:roman;mso-font-pitch:variable;mso-font-signature:-536870145 1107305727 0 0 415 0;}@font-face{font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;mso-font-charset:0;mso-generic-font-family:swiss;mso-font-pitch:variable;mso-font-signature:-469750017 -1073732485 9 0 511 0;}p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal{mso-style-unhide:no;mso-style-qformat:yes;mso-style-parent:;margin:0in;mso-pagination:widow-orphan;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri;mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-bidi-font-family:Vrinda;mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA;}.MsoChpDefault{mso-style-type:export-only;mso-default-props:yes;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;mso-fareast-font-family:Calibri;mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-bidi-font-family:Vrinda;mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA;}div.WordSection1{page:WordSection1;}
Highlights
While working in the knitting industry, the authors had identified the stitch length (SL) as the most important parameter to evaluate any knitted textile structures
The findings are described with three experimental conditionsa) With a fixed central and vertical couliering depth setting
Yarn tension increased with increasing central couliering and vertical couliering
Summary
While working in the knitting industry, the authors had identified the stitch length (SL) as the most important parameter to evaluate any knitted textile structures. The SL (known as loop length) refers to the length of yarn in one loop of a single weft knitted fabric and it is primarily controlled through yarn delivery rate from the Quality Adjusting Pulley (QAP) disk diameter of the positive feeding units (Lek-Uthai & Dias, 1999). As the mixture of couliering (both central and vertical) and yarn delivery rate determine the magnitude of yarn input tension, a knitter has to consider all these factors to knit a right quality fabric.
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