Effect of yarn characteristics on surface properties of knitted fabrics

Abstract

Fabric surface properties are significant in terms of fabric handle, sensorial comfort, aesthetic and performance properties. Yarn properties are among the most important parameters that affect fabric surface properties. Besides, fiber type, fiber properties and spinning technology etc. directly affect the physical, mechanical and performance properties of yarns as well as fabric surface properties. In the scope of this study, effects of fiber type (raw material), fiber fineness and fiber length on the surface properties of fabrics were investigated. Also, properties of yarns were measured and their effects on fabric surface properties were analyzed. For this purpose, unevenness, optical unevenness, imperfections, structural properties (diameter, density, roughness and shape), hairiness and frictional properties of yarns were measured, and relationships between abrasion resistance, pilling and frictional properties of knitted fabrics were examined. Regression models were developed in order to predict fabric surface properties from yarn characteristics. Based on comprehensive data analysis, it was concluded that variation in yarn friction and yarn hairiness explains approximately 80–85% of fabric-to-fabric and fabric-to-skin (gazelle skin) friction coefficients. Furthermore, positive correlations between yarn hairiness and weight loss, and yarn hairiness and thickness change after abrasion test, were observed. Additionally, a new parameter, the optical contact index (OCI), based on an image analysis method, was suggested to determine the surface properties and roughness of fabrics. Relationships between the OCI and other tested fabric surface properties were statistically analyzed. Statistical analyses showed that high correlations exist between the new parameter and fabric friction and abrasion resistance at the 0.05 significance level.