Abstract
The formation of crescentic bars is examined using a morphodynamic model based in linear stability analysis. The effect of surface rollers for off-normal wave conditions is examined. The effect of the rollers is to increase the efolding times with increasing the angle of incidence. For angles large enough the formation of crescentic bars is even inhibit. The main effect of the rollers it be through hydrodynamics. The longitudinal changes in current produced by the rollers cause the maximum of sediment concentration to be shifted towards the coast with the final effect of prevent the formation of crecscentic bars.
Highlights
The effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars/rip channel systems is examined with a morphodynamic model
Calvete et al (2011) in investigation the effect of the rollers of surface rollers on crescentic bars for different angles and they conclude that surface rollers inhibit their formation for large angles of incidence
We show that the effect of the surface rollers on the longshore current is to increase it on the trough area and to shift the maximum of the current to the shore
Summary
The effect of surface rollers on the formation of crescentic bars/rip channel systems (for a description of these features see van Enckevort et al, 2004) is examined with a morphodynamic model. Turbulent bores, generated by surface rollers, increase sediment resuspension in the surf zone (Voulgaris and Collins, 2000). The study of Ribas et al (2011) show that accounting for the stirring of sediment by surface rollers, trough turbulent bores, is essential to simulate and interpret the formation of inner-surfzone transverse sand bars. Reniers et al (2004) modelled rip channel formation taking into account the rollers. Reniers et al (2004) do not investigate the impact of consider the surface rollers, and their contribution to sediment transport, on the overall results. Calvete et al (2011) in investigation the effect of the rollers of surface rollers on crescentic bars for different angles and they conclude that surface rollers inhibit their formation for large angles of incidence
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