Abstract
Many previous studies showed that seam appearance as well as performance depends on the interrelationship of fabrics, threads, and the stitch/seam selection and lastly on the sewing conditions, which include the needle size, needle thread tension, stitch density, and the appropriate operation and maintenance of the sewing machine. Present investigation elucidates the effect of blend composition, sewing thread size, and sewing needle parameters on garment seam characteristics (i.e., seam strength, seam strength efficiency, seam puckering, seam stiffness, and drape coefficient). The seam quality characterization is studied through the L9 orthogonal design methodology. In good quality apparels, compatibility of the seams with the functional requirement is very important for serviceability and life of the apparel. Reversibility as well as repairing of seams in the apparel is very limited in the condition of seam failure. Seam strength efficiency is higher for the uniform fiber matrix in the structure of fabrics. The polyester dominated suiting fabrics give minimum seam stiffness because polyester component has low flexural rigidity. The cotton dominated suiting fabrics have less seam puckering due to increase in fabric stiffness.
Highlights
The fabric quality influences the quality of the garment and the ease with which a shell structure can be produced out with flat fabric
The primary quality characteristics are static physical dimensions and secondary characteristics are the reactions of the fabric to an applied dynamic force
The apparel manufacturer is primarily interested in the secondary characteristics of the fabric and focus on the seam quality during the fabrication and production of apparel [1, 2]
Summary
The fabric quality influences the quality of the garment and the ease with which a shell structure can be produced out with flat fabric. In the course of garment manufacturing, for protective measures to prevent the thread strength reduction and/or breakage during sewing from the needle heat up, the different types of finishes can be applied over sewing thread according to the specific end use of apparel products. The fabric properties which affect the seam quality of apparel are cover factor, weight, thickness, strength, shrinkage, functional finishes, extensibility, bending rigidity, and shear rigidity, some of which form an integral part of low stress mechanical properties. The L9 orthogonal experimental design is taken into account to see the effect of blend composition, needle thread tension, needle size, and sewing thread linear density on the stitching performances like seam efficiency, seam stiffness, seam puckering, and drape coefficient of seam, as incorporating larger influencing factors and output effects through statistical analysis
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