Effect of Pressure Decatizing on Fabric Drape

Abstract

The effect of pressure decatizing on the draping properties of wool suiting fabrics is investigated across a range of typical decatizing conditions. The study shows that fabric drape depends on fabric mechanical properties, decatizing conditions, and fabric history. Analysis of the drape of a range of pure wool suiting fabrics shows that the fabric drape coefficient depends more strongly on bending length than on shear rigidity, factors that are established through cloth construction. However the effect of pressure decatizing on the fabric drape coefficient is more closely associated with changes in shear rigidity rather than bending length. Pressure decatizing has more effect on the drape of undyed fabrics than dyed ones. The drape of dyed fabrics changes only slightly after pressure decatizing, but the drape coefficient of dyed fabrics is still less than undyed fabrics, even after pressure decatizing. These results are consistent with a model including setting (stress relaxation) and allowing for a change of yarn geometry during dyeing. Small increases in the shear rigidity of dyed fabrics after pressure decatizing are consistent with the effect of lateral pressure on the fabric during decatizing.