Abstract
The concept of an equilibrium beach profile is convenient and widely adopted for long-term simulations of shoreline changes and beach profile evolutions. The equilibrium profile is regarded as a profile with net cross-shore sediment transport rate qn = 0. Kobayashi et al. (2008) proposed formulas for offshore suspended sediment transport rate qs and onshore bedload transport rate qb and derived the equilibrium profile equation of Dean (1991) for the case of qn = (qs+ qb) = 0. Their model is extended to equilibrium profiles with net offshore (qn0) sediment transport rates. The equilibrium profile with qn=0 is modified by periodic beach nourishment (qn0). The extended model predicts the degree and location of profile modifications as a function of qn and it can be used to improve beach nourishment design and devise barrier beach overwash countermeasures.
Highlights
EXPERIMENT An equilibrium profile of an actual beach is difficult to pinpoint because of the time-varying water level and waves
The measured profile was assumed to be in equilibrium when the profile change under ten runs (4000s) was close to measurement errors of a few millimeters
The second test with negative (N) net rate was initiated on the equilibrium profile of test Z with sand placed at the still water shoreline
Summary
EXPERIMENT An equilibrium profile of an actual beach is difficult to pinpoint because of the time-varying water level and waves. Eight wave gauges were used to measure the free surface elevation from outside the surf zone to the swash zone. The fluid velocities in the surf zone were measured by three velocimeters. The beach profiles were measured using a laser line scanner system.
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