Abstract

This study investigated the effects of 25 kinds of esters that are used in cosmetics on the permeation of four model compounds with different polarities (caffeine [CF], aminopyrine [AMP], benzoic acid [BA], and flurbiprofen [FP]). The amount of each model compound that permeated through two types of artificial membrane (silicone and Strat-M®) was measured and correlated with the physicochemical properties of the esters, including their solubility, viscosity, wettability, surface tension, and uptake. The amount of each model compound that permeated through the silicone membrane was not significantly correlated with the solubility of the esters but was significantly correlated with all other measured physical properties of the esters. Similar correlations were observed for the amounts of AMP, BA, and FP that passed through the Strat-M® membrane. However, the amount of CF that permeated through the Strat-M® membrane also correlated with the solubility of the esters. There was a highly significant correlation between the amount permeating through the silicone and Strat-M® membranes because the model compounds had high lipophilicity. These findings demonstrated that to control the permeation of various chemicals through artificial membranes, it is important to consider the uptake of the esters and that the solubility of the esters is also an important consideration when using a more complex membrane.

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