Abstract
The glycation process has been recognized as one of the critical parameters that accelerate signs of skin aging, especially in skin exposed to environment factors, such as ultraviolet radiation. Although previous studies showed the anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties of the hydrolyzed collagen tripeptide (CTP), its exact mechanism is not fully understood. Therefore, in this study, we sought to investigate the effect of a topical CTP on facial skin. Our group designed a 4 week prospective, single-arm study of 22 Asian women who applied topical CTP. We observed significant improvements in skin wrinkles, elasticity, and density with a reduction in skin accumulation of advanced glycated end products (AGEs) at week 4 without any adverse effects. The in vitro study revealed a preventive effect of the topical CTP on the accumulation of AGEs, denatured collagen production, and reactive oxygen species in dermal fibroblasts. Moreover, treatment with the CTP decreased induction of matrix metalloproteinases while increasing the collagen 1 level. These results suggest that the application of a topical CTP might improve clinical aging phenotypes via the inhibition of glycation and oxidative stress, leading to a delay in cellular aging.
Highlights
Skin aging is the combined result of the effects from intrinsic factors and external factors
The collagen tripeptide (CTP) is an enzymatically hydrolyzed form of collagen, enabling it to be used as a food supplement and for cosmeceutical skincare with better solubility and bioavailability along with lower allergenic properties compared to the traditional collagen formulations [4]
Collagen hydrolysate has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient for topical formulations with good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin, reducing the effect of skin aging [6]
Summary
Skin aging is the combined result of the effects from intrinsic factors and external factors. Previous studies on patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) and dry skin showed that oral and topical formulations of CTPs showed anti-inflammatory properties, resulting in improvement of AD, including skin hydration and itching [5]. Collagen hydrolysate has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient for topical formulations with good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin, reducing the effect of skin aging (dryness, laxity, and wrinkles) [6]. Those previous studies showed the anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties of the CTP, its exact mechanism is not fully understood
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