Abstract
Edge wave can be generated by an atmospheric pressure disturbance moving along the shoreline on a sloping beach. A two-dimensional numerical model based on non-linear shallow water equations is established and a set of numerical experiments are conducted to study the edge wave packets evolution in coastal ocean. In light of the analytical solutions by Greenspan, some dominant factors are discussed, such as disturbance spatial size, translation speed, its location and the slope inclination, that influence the generation conditions and evolution process of edge waves. The results indicate on what circumstances significant edge waves will be excited and how long it takes for the wave growth.
Highlights
Edge wave is a resurgent wave motion which is characterized by the phenomena that waves propagate along the shoreline and are confined within a certain distance offshore
Analytical solutions for edge waves have been derived in the full linear wave equation by Ursell (1952) and the linear shallow water equation by Eckart (1951)
The stationary solution showed that the wave amplitude would be amplified when edge wave occurs, which is known as the Greenspan resonance
Summary
Edge wave is a resurgent wave motion which is characterized by the phenomena that waves propagate along the shoreline and are confined within a certain distance offshore. KEY WORDS Edge wave; Atmospheric pressure disturbance; Generation conditions; Evolution process; Growth time Analytical solutions for edge waves have been derived in the full linear wave equation by Ursell (1952) and the linear shallow water equation by Eckart (1951).
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