Durability of Fabric Handle and Shape Retention During Wear of Men's Summer Suits

Abstract

Fabric handle durability and shape retention during wear of men's summer suits were evaluated under both wear and simulation conditions, using the objective eval uation methods of handle and garment appearance based on the mechanical properties measured by the KES-FB. The simulation test was performed using the KES-F5 fatigue test machine. Shape retention during wear of a suit jacket tailored from fabric with a total appearance value ( TAV ) of 4.39 was superior to that of a jacket tailored from fabric with a TAV of 2.15. The decrease in the TAVs after the simulation test was less for those fabrics having a high TAV than those with a rather low TAV. The TAV of the fabrics can be used to characterize the appearance of a suit after wear. For the wool and wool/mohair blend fabrics, there was a linear relationship between the decrease in the total hand value after the simulation test and the increase in fabric hysteresis at low levels of shear strain (2HG) measured after the deformation test of 104 cycles along the weft direction. The fabrics with good handle durability showed a small increase in 2HG in the deformation test of 104 cycles.