Dominant morphodynamic processes of a macrotidal beach of the eastern tropical Pacific and its relationships with climate variability

Abstract

In this study, the influence of different coastal processes, including ocean-atmospheric processes of regional scale, on the spatiotemporal variability of the morphodynamic from the emerged zone of a beach in the Colombian eastern tropical Pacific, specifically in the macrotidal regime's Playa La Bocana, was analyzed during 2014–2019. The linear dependence of the sediment volume on the tide, rainfall, and winds was quantified using Pearson correlations and with large-scale oceanic and climatic relationships, that could be related to sediment volume anomalies. The highest correlation sediment volume monthly mean values are presented with the tide on an intra-annual scale. On an inter-annual scale, the sea surface temperature and sea level pressure composites were consistent with the El Niño-Southern Oscillation patterns. Thus, a cooling (warming) of the tropical Pacific is associated with a higher (lower) sediment volume onshore at Playa La Bocana. Furthermore, it was found that increase (decrease) on Swell (Mean Wave Period and Significant Wave Height) decreased (increased) the volume of sediments. These results show that the tide is the main modulator of beach sediment volume changes under the macrotidal regime, on the intra-annual scale, and that on the inter-annual scale, sediment volume responds to the combined effect of the tide and changes in swell intensity modulated by ENSO conditions.