Distinct Bacterial Communities in São Jorge Cheese with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)

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São Jorge cheese is an iconic product of the Azores, produced from raw cow's milk and natural whey starter (NWS). Although it is produced according to Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) specifications, the granting of the PDO label depends crucially on sensory evaluation by trained tasters. The aim of this work was to characterize the bacterial diversity of this cheese using next-generation sequencing (NGS) and to identify the specific microbiota that contributes most to its uniqueness as a PDO by distinguishing the bacterial communities of PDO and non-PDO cheeses. The NWS and curd microbiota was dominated by Streptococcus and Lactococcus, whereas Lactobacillus and Leuconostoc were also present in the core microbiota of the cheese along with these genera. Significant differences (p < 0.05) in bacterial community composition were found between PDO cheese and non-certified cheese; Leuconostoc was found to play the chief role in this regard. Certified cheeses were richer in Leuconostoc, Lactobacillus and Enterococcus, but had fewer Streptococcus (p < 0.05). A negative correlation was found between contaminating bacteria, e.g., Staphylococcus and Acinetobacter, and the development of PDO-associated bacteria such as Leuconostoc, Lactobacillus and Enterococcus. A reduction in contaminating bacteria was found to be crucial for the development of a bacterial community rich in Leuconostoc and Lactobacillus, thus justifying the PDO seal of quality. This study has helped to clearly distinguish between cheeses with and without PDO based on the composition of the bacterial community. The characterization of the NWS and the cheese microbiota can contribute to a better understanding of the microbial dynamics of this traditional PDO cheese and can help producers interested in maintaining the identity and quality of São Jorge PDO cheese.