Digital and conventional printing and dyeing with the natural dye annatto: optimisation and standardisation processes to meet future demands

Abstract

The plant colorant annatto was investigated to determine its potential use as a natural dye for conventional and novel textile applications. Alum was selected as a mordant. Different techniques of mordanting and a broad set of variations in the dyeing recipes were applied to achieve optimisation and an improvement in colour fastness properties. Quality control of all dyeings was performed using standard fastness tests and colour measurements. Printing of cotton fabrics was also achieved with annatto using the flatbed screen‐printing technique. Measurement of the rheological and physical properties of the annatto printing paste confirmed its stability and suitability for conventional printing. Fastness properties of the conventionally printed annatto fabric were also measured. A novel water‐based digital printing ink using annatto was prepared and applied to cotton fabric using a digital printing application. The physical properties of the annatto ink‐jet ink were also measured. Wash, light and rub fastness properties of the annatto digitally printed fabric were determined and compared with those of conventional printing methods. The results were promising for annatto as a natural colorant, which possibly paves the way for the development of a new range of natural environmentally friendly dyes.