Abstract
In this study, ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) was applied to extract bioactive substances with skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects from safflower seeds, and the extraction conditions were optimized by a central composite design. The independent variables, including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C), and ethanol concentration (0.0~100%), were optimized to increase tyrosinase activity inhibitory (TAI), collagenase activity inhibitory (CAI), and radical scavenging activity (RSA), which are indicators of skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects. An extraction time of 26.4 min, extraction temperature of 52.1 °C, and ethanol concentration of 50.7% were found to be optimum conditions of UAE, under which TAI, CAI, and RSA were 53.3%, 91.5%, and 27.7%, respectively. The extract produced by UAE was analyzed by LC-MS/MS, and maleic acid and levulinic acid were identified as the main substances. Therefore, UAE is evaluated as an effective process to extract skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant substances from safflower seeds at lower temperatures and shorter extraction times compared to the conventional extraction methods. Overall, safflower seeds extract can be used as a material for value-added cosmetics, including maleic acid and levulinic acid, which have bioactive functions.
Highlights
As living standards have improved and interest in health and beauty has increased, the demand for functional cosmetics that improve skin health and beauty and delay skin aging is increasing rapidly [1,2]
In order to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions, the extraction time, extraction temperature, and ethanol concentration were set as independent variables to predict conditions for simultaneous maximization of the tyrosinase activity inhibitory (TAI), collagenase activity inhibitory (CAI), and radical scavenging activity (RSA)
It was confirmed that the TAI, CAI, and RSA, which are indicators of skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant activities are respectively greatly affected by the concentration of ethanol used for extracting bioactive substances from safflower seeds using UAE
Summary
As living standards have improved and interest in health and beauty has increased, the demand for functional cosmetics that improve skin health and beauty and delay skin aging is increasing rapidly [1,2]. The research and development of cosmetic substances that have multiple functions, such as skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant, are increasing [4]. Collagenase is a type of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) that can hydrolyze peptide bonds in macromolecules such as aggrecan, elastin, fibronectin, selectin, gelatin, laminin, and collagen, which decompose the dermal matrix and increases wrinkles by reducing skin elasticity [7]. The research for the development of anti-wrinkle agents that primarily focuses on the inhibitory mechanism of collagenase is being conducted to inhibit the degradation of collagen, a protein responsible for skin tension, strength, and elasticity [8]. The substances that inhibit collagenase activity may have beneficial effects to maintain healthy skin by preventing dermal matrix degradation [9]
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