Abstract

ObjectivesSebaceous glands maintain skin homeostasis by producing sebum. Low production can induce hair loss and fragile skin. Overproduction provokes seborrhoea and may lead to acne and inflammatory events. To better study sebaceous gland maintenance, sebocyte maturation, lipid production and ageing or inflammatory processes, we developed innovative 3D ex vivo models for human sebaceous glands.Materials and MethodsCulture conditions and analytical methods optimized on sebocyte monolayers were validated on extracted sebaceous glands and allowed the development of two 3D models: (a) “air‐liquid” interface and (b) human fibronectin‐coated “sandwich” method. Lipid production was assessed with microscopy, fluorometry or flow cytometry analysis after Nile Red staining. Specific lipids (particularly squalene and peroxidized squalene) were measured by Gas or liquid Chromatography and Mass spectrometry.ResultsThis study allowed us to select appropriate conditions and design Seb4Gln culture medium inducing sebocyte proliferation and neutral lipid production. The “air‐liquid” model was appropriate to induce sebocyte isolation. The “sandwich” model enabled sebaceous gland maintenance up to 42 days. A treatment with Insulin Growth Factor‐1 allowed validation of the model as we succeeded in mimicking dynamic lipid overproduction.ConclusionFunctional sebocyte maturation and physiological maintenance were preserved up to 6 weeks in our models. Associated with functional assays, they provide a powerful platform to mimic physiological skin lipid metabolism and to screen for active ingredients modulating sebum production.

Highlights

  • Human skin homeostasis requires sebum production regulation

  • By calculating the ratio between NR‐bright and NR‐dim population Mean Fluorescence Intensity (MFI) after 1 or 3 weeks of culture in both media (Figure 4D), we showed that this ratio was always slightly higher in Seb4Gln medium for neutral lipids (FL1)

  • Culture conditions and analytical methods were first optimized using 2D human sebocyte monolayers, enabling us to develop spe‐ cific “in house” proprietary medium supporting both cell prolifer‐ ation and production of neutral lipids that are specific of sebaceous glands (SG)

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Summary

Introduction

Human skin homeostasis requires sebum production regulation. Sebum is produced by sebaceous glands (SG) located in skin der‐ mis and often associated with a hair follicle forming a pilo‐seba‐ ceous unit.[1]. A role in thermoregulation and resistance against UVB‐induced apoptosis[5,6,7] has been shown Those ef‐ fects remain unclear for human skin[8] and, even if a real correlation between SG morphology and hair loss has been shown,[9] sebum effect on human hair follicle integrity remains unclear.

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