Development of Face Pack Powder of Arabica Coffee (Coffea arabica L.) Using Variations of Binders with D-Optimal Mixture Design

Abstract

Cosmetics like face pack powder are popular preparations used by men and women. Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC), sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC-Na) and carbopol are commonly used binders and are suited to dispersal by water. Many natural ingredients such as arabica coffee (Coffea arabica L.) are useful for cosmetics. Chlorogenic acid and α-tocopherol is a bioactive compound for antioxidant activity and is important in its application in face pack powder. This study aimed to determine the ratio comparison of the composition of the three polymers used as the binders for preparations of the coffee face pack powder using a D-optimal mixture design, analyze the evaluation results of the optimum face pack powder formula, and determine its antioxidant activity. The study began with coffee extraction with 70% ethanol as solvent, wet granulation process with binders and other excipients, evaluation of organoleptic properties, pH, and water content, stability observation for 28 days, and in-vitro measurement of antioxidant activity. One-sample t-test was applied to analyze the results. The obtained optimum formula was with the ratio of HPMC (8.43): carbopol (1.16): CMC-Na (5.41). The evaluation results of the optimum formula showed that the face pack powder has ash brown color, weak aromatic typical coffee fragrance, homogeneous texture, pH value of 5.93 ± 0.06, and water content of 0.89 ± 0.15%. The resulting study shows the coffee face pack powder and crude extract have antioxidant activity (34.94 ppm ± 0.75 and 15.78 ppm ± 2.53). The analysis with the one-sample t-test showed that the experimental results were not significantly different from the software predictions, so the Design-Expert® software using the D-optimal mixture design is applicable to predict the optimum formula of coffee face pack powder