Development of a non-destructive methodology using ATR-FTIR and chemometrics to discriminate wild silk species in heritage collections

Abstract

This paper aims to develop a non-destructive methodology applicable to heritage artifacts in order to discriminate between different species of wild silks. Wild silks are less known than domestic silk from Bombyx mori, but they are numerous and have been used in textile weaving for thousands of years. Archaeological artifacts, museum artifacts, and ethnographic collections deserve to be better documented regarding wild silks. The developed methodology is based on Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) coupled with chemometric analyses such as Principal Component Analysis (PCA) and Hierarchical Cluster Analysis (HCA). Discriminant statistical analysis has enabled within a corpus of wild silks, including cocoons from the collections of the musée du quai Branly-Jacques Chirac (Paris, France), to differentiate cocoons of the species Borocera madagascariensis (Lasiocampidae) from samples belonging to the Saturniidae family. These very encouraging results are promising for future studies involving more species and more diverse artifacts.