Abstract
Emulsions are of great use in cosmetic formulations due to their stability. The aim of this work was to develop and assess organoleptic, physicochemical, and microscopic properties of four auto-emulsifiable oil-in-water formulations. Such formulations were developed containing 4.0% cetearyl alcohol, dicetyl phosphate, and ceteth-10 phosphate (Formulation A), nano-actives obtained from safflower, coconut, and clove oils (Formulation B); a mixture of glycolic extracts from Centella asiatica leaves, Aesculus hippocastanum seeds, and Hamamelis virginiana leaves (Formulation C); association between the nano-actives and glycolic extracts described above (Formulation D). The formulations were trialed for 90 days under the normal stability test. The developed formulations were considered all stable and homogeneous, with liquid crystals possibly being formed. Organoleptic parameters and pH of Formulations A and B remained unchanged, but the color of Formulations C and D changed due to the natural color of the glycolic extracts used. It can be concluded that the formation of liquid crystals increased the stability of the formulations, and future tests should be carried out in order to assess the rheological properties and hydration potential of the developed formulations.
Highlights
Emulsions can be defined as a homogeneous system made of an aqueous and an oil phase.In order for both phases to become a mixture, emulsifying agents are added to the formulation so that stability and homogeneity are achieved, maintaining both phases in a formulation system of equilibrium [1,2].The choice of raw materials to be used is essential if the emulsion is to have desirable characteristics in terms of consistency, stability, hydration, and the ability to improve skin aesthetics, among others.it is important to define what the function and the applicability of the formulation will be [1].The base used in the present study was a phosphate-derived auto-emulsifying base capable of forming liquid crystals
Formulation B had nano-actives from safflower, coconut, and clover oils; Formulation C had glycolic extracts from Centella asiatica and Hamamelis virginiana leaves and from Aesculus hippocastanum seeds; Formulation D had the components from Formulations B and C in association
While emulsions are widely used in cosmetic formulations, they have the disadvantage of suffering from low physicochemical stability
Summary
Emulsions can be defined as a homogeneous system made of an aqueous and an oil phase.In order for both phases to become a mixture, emulsifying agents are added to the formulation so that stability and homogeneity are achieved, maintaining both phases in a formulation system of equilibrium [1,2].The choice of raw materials to be used is essential if the emulsion is to have desirable characteristics in terms of consistency, stability, hydration, and the ability to improve skin aesthetics, among others.it is important to define what the function and the applicability of the formulation will be [1].The base used in the present study was a phosphate-derived auto-emulsifying base capable of forming liquid crystals. Emulsions can be defined as a homogeneous system made of an aqueous and an oil phase. In order for both phases to become a mixture, emulsifying agents are added to the formulation so that stability and homogeneity are achieved, maintaining both phases in a formulation system of equilibrium [1,2]. The choice of raw materials to be used is essential if the emulsion is to have desirable characteristics in terms of consistency, stability, hydration, and the ability to improve skin aesthetics, among others. Formulations that form liquid crystals are usually more chemicophysically stable, better protect bioactives against photo and thermodegradation, and better promote skin hydration by forming films on the stratum corneum [4]
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