Development and characterization of highly structured rinse-off conditioners containing vegetable oils

Abstract

The appearance of the hair interferes with people's self-esteem and may indicate characteristics about their lifestyle. Due to their importance, hair treatment cosmetics correspond to a significant portion of the sector's sales. This research aimed to develop and characterize highly structured conditioners, prepared with avocado, wheat germ and grape seeds oils. The formulations were developed through a ternary phase diagram, using cationic surfactant (cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride), oily phase (mineral or vegetable oils) and aqueous phase. The formulations obtained were classified according to their aspect and viscosity, with the most appropriate ones chosen for the intended use. They were evaluated by polarized light microscopy (PLM) to verify the structure of the system and, also, by means of rheology, small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and sun protection factor (SPF) determination. After the classification of the formulations, the opaque and uniform ones, with intermediate viscosity, compatible with the application on the hair were chosen, guaranteeing acceptance by possible consumers. PLM offered images indicative of highly structured systems, confirmed by the SAXS technique. Rheology indicated that the use of vegetable oils, compared to mineral oil, generated formulations with slightly lower viscosity, allowing the choice of the formulation (12, of the ternary diagram) with higher viscosity among the others. Finally, the determination of the SPF did not indicate the ability to protect against ultraviolet radiation. Thus, in this study, a highly structured formulation, prepared with cationic surfactant and vegetable oils was developed, offering another possibility of an innovative product to consumers of hair cosmetics.