Abstract
Essential oils (EO) are complex mixtures of biosynthesized chemicals basically by plants, which provide them their characteristic aroma. Many have biologically recognized activities as antioxidants and anti-inflammatory among others, and many of them are employed as cosmetic actives. Very often, these properties are not fully exploited because of their high volatility and tendency to oxidize, so it is necessary to attach them to a conveyor to provide them adequate stabilization and lifetime. One of the best alternatives to carry out this is microencapsulation, for which natural biopolymers can be used, such as the starches. Therefore, it used EO of thyme, cinnamon, and clove, which were obtained by conventional and assisted hydrodistillation by microwave radiation from the plant material. The chemical composition was evaluated by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The radical scavenging ability was determined by antiradical activity techniques including DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis-(3-ethylthiazoline-benzenesulfonic acid-6)), and the ORAC method was used for determining the antioxidant capacity. Also, starches of yam (D. rotundata), sweet potato (I. batatas), corn (Z. mays), and cassava (M. esculenta) were used, which were subjected to hydrolysis and lipophilization processes using dodecenyl succinic anhydride (DDSA); this chemical process achieves a significant increase in emulsifier capacity (surfactant) compared to its native state; that of cassava was the most promising starch which was used as an EO microencapsulating agent. Finally, from the EO microcapsules, an emulgel-type cosmetic was designed which maintained its antioxidant activity. The results of this work contribute to the development of stable and functional cosmetic formulations of essential oils, emphasizing that the extraction of EO by assisted microwave radiation hydrodistillation is considered a fast, efficient, green, and relatively economical method compared to conventional hydrodistillation.
Highlights
The World Health Organization estimates that 80% of the population in developing countries use plants to solve their health needs
The reduction of oxygen occurs through the electrons that escape from the respiratory chain, giving rise to the super oxide (O2−), which can dismantle and form which with transition metals hydrogen peroxide as iron (Fe2+) and (H2O2), copper (Cu+) produce radical hydroxyl (OH−) by Fenton reaction, which is considered one of the most damaging oxidant species in biological systems and most responsible for the oxidative damage together with the radical peroxyl [3]
This work is aimed at designing an emulgel-type cosmetic with antioxidant activity which was designed as active essential oil microcapsules of thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.), canela (Cinnamomum verum J.), and clove of odor (Eugenia caryophyllata T)
Summary
The World Health Organization estimates that 80% of the population in developing countries use plants to solve their health needs. We find plants that contain antioxidant compounds, which protect cells from the damaging effects of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Oxidative damage can be prevented by antioxidant molecules which are capable of donating electrons to stabilize free radicals and neutralize its harmful effects; they can be of endogenous (synthesized by the body) or exogenous (from external sources) origins [3]. Flavonoids and other phenolic plant origin compounds have been reported as free radical scavengers [1]. The plants as Thymus vulgaris, Cinnamomum verum, and Eugenia caryophyllata belonging to the families Lamiaceae, Lauraceae, and Myrtaceae, respectively, known as thyme, cinnamon, and clove in Colombia [4], containing β-caryophyllene, quercetin, triterpenic acids, α-pinene, β-pinene, thymol, eugenol, carvacrol, 8-cineol, β-felandren, and p-cymene, with which many pharmacological properties have been reported, including antiepileptic, antitumor and antimutagenic, radioprotective, antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, diuretic, antipyretic, and analgesic [5]. This work is aimed at designing an emulgel-type cosmetic with antioxidant activity which was designed as active essential oil microcapsules of thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.), canela (Cinnamomum verum J.), and clove of odor (Eugenia caryophyllata T)
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