Abstract

Sebum is a lipid-rich mixture secreted by the sebaceous gland (SG) onto the skin surface. By penetrating through the epidermis, sebum may be involved in the regulation of epidermal and dermal cells in both healthy and diseased skin conditions. Saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids (FAs), found as free FAs (FFAs) and in bound form in neutral lipids, are essential constituents of sebum and key players of the inflammatory processes occurring in the pilosebaceous unit in acne-prone skin. Little is known on the interplay among uptake of saturated FFAs, their biotransformation, and induction of proinflammatory cytokines in sebocytes. In the human SG, palmitate (C16:0) is the precursor of sapienate (C16:1n-10) formed by insertion of a double bond (DB) at the Δ6 position catalysed by the fatty acid desaturase 2 (FADS2) enzyme. Conversely, palmitoleate (C16:1n-7) is formed by insertion of a DB at the Δ9 position catalysed by the stearoyl coenzyme A desaturase 1 (SCD1) enzyme. Other FFAs processed in the SG, also undergo these main desaturation pathways. We investigated lipogenesis and release of IL-6 and IL-8 pro-inflammatory cytokines in SZ95 sebocytes in vitro after treatment with saturated FFAs, that is, C16:0, margarate (C17:0), and stearate (C18:0) with or without specific inhibitors of SCD1 and FADS2 desaturase enzymes, and a drug with mixed inhibitory effects on FADS1 and FADS2 activities. C16:0 underwent extended desaturation through both SCD1 and FADS2 catalysed pathways and displayed the strongest lipoinflammatory effects. Inhibition of desaturation pathways proved to enhance lipoinflammation induced by SFAs in SZ95 sebocytes. Palmitate (C16:0), margarate (C17:0), and stearate (C18:0) are saturated fatty acids that induce different arrays of neutral lipids (triglycerides) and dissimilar grades of inflammation in sebocytes.

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