Delf3D Morphological Modelling of Wave Climate and Sediment Transport in Kenitra Coast (Morocco)

Abstract

Knowledge on wave incidence direction and sediment transport are important for the design of any coastal structure. Such detail of wave information may vary from the information on wave direction to the wave direction spreading. The objective of the present study is to understand the wave climate along the Kenitra coast (Morocco) and to quantify the sediment transport rates. A hydrodynamic model of nearshore waves (i.e., Delft-3D model) for combined waves and currents is used (1) to simulate water level variations and velocity in response to a variety of forcing functions in coastal areas; (2) to quantify and find the movement of sediments along the coast for two selected period (calm and storm periods). The model was calibrated against water level variation. Additionally, the model validation process showed a good agreement with the model simulated and measured water levels. The results show that the most important factors in controlling Kenitra beach are wave height and currents. In addition, the directions of waves present a significant difference during the study period; it was from the sector between 15° and 30°. Also, the rip currents are discontinuous shore-perpendicular flows within the nearshore area. These currents are powerful agents and they are associated with problems concerning long-term erosion. The sediment movement is predominate in calm and storms seasons along the coast; and the direction of sediment transport is from North-North West.