Cultural gatekeeping in cosmetic surgery: Transnational beauty ideals in multicultural Malaysia

Abstract

This article examines the role of cosmetic surgeons as cosmopolitan intermediaries in transnational flows of beauty ideals. Based on semi-structured interviews with 25 Malaysian cosmetic surgeons and patients, ethnographic observation of surgeon-patient interactions, and observation of plastic surgery professional meetings in Asia, I argue that cosmetic surgeons exhibit aesthetic agency in acting as both medical and cultural gatekeepers to desired physical appearances. Malaysian cosmetic surgeons selectively facilitate the spread of beauty ideals as they construct “looks” for their patients to meet local tastes. These include looks that cosmetic surgeons call “Asian,” “Indian,” “Western,” and “Korean.” Malaysian cosmetic surgeons act as tastemakers by, for instance, drawing a symbolic boundary between unnatural “Caucasian” and natural “Asian” beauty ideals. They also engage in translation work to render beauty ideals concrete. Their ability to incorporate knowledge of patients’ physical and cultural constraints into their looks is a competitive advantage in a transnational industry. The assertion of a pan-ethnic Asian beauty ideal aligns Malaysian cosmetic surgeons with Asian rather than Western cultural and medical trajectories. Examining the beauty industry in transnational context sheds light on regional power dynamics and emerging identities.