Abstract
Sediment transport is a key element in intertidal beach morphodynamics, but measurements of sediment transport are often unreliable. The aim of this study is to quantify and investigate cross-shore sediment transport and the resulting topographic changes for a tide-dominated, sandy beach. Two fortnight-long field experiments were carried out during which hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics were measured with optical and acoustic sensors, while the beach topography was surveyed with a permanent terrestrial laser scanner. Suspended sediment was generally well-mixed and currents were largest at approximately 1.5 m above the bed, which resulted in a peak in sediment transport at 1/3 of the high tide level. The mean transport direction was onshore during calm conditions (wave height <0.6 m) thanks to tidal currents and offshore during energetic conditions due to undertow. Oscillatory transport was always onshore because of wave asymmetry but it was subordinate to mean transport. The intertidal zone showed an alternation of erosion and accretion with formation of morphological features during energetic (no storm) conditionsand smoothening of the morphology during calm conditions. A good qualitative and quantitative agreement was found between the daily cross-shore suspended load and beach volume changes, especially during calm conditions.
Highlights
The intertidal zone is highly dynamic, as it is subject to waves, tidal currents, and wind.Its dynamics have frequently been examined by relating hydrodynamic forcing directly to morphological response [1,2,3]
This study presents a comprehensive set of records of sediment transport and sediment transport remains unclear
This study investigated cross-shore sediment transport and resulting topographic changes for a tide-dominated, sandy beach on a daily scale
Summary
The intertidal zone is highly dynamic, as it is subject to waves, tidal currents, and wind.Its dynamics have frequently been examined by relating hydrodynamic forcing directly to morphological response [1,2,3]. The intertidal zone is highly dynamic, as it is subject to waves, tidal currents, and wind. Sediment transport processes have been investigated to a lesser extent due to the complex motions and scales involved: from seconds to tidal cycles and beyond. Most studies ofsediment transport have been qualitative [4,5,6] and only few have been successful in quantifying sediment transport in the intertidal zone [7]. Accurate measurements of sediment transport are crucial in order to improve our understanding and modelling capacities of the intertidal morphodynamics [8]. The high impact of breaking waves, rapidly changing bed levels, and variations in water level make it challenging to measure sediment transport in the intertidal zone. The advance of sophisticated sensors, such as high frequency optical backscatter sensors (OBS) and acoustic backscatter
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