Abstract
The purpose of this research is in solution of two important subjects mutually related; (1) creation of fabrics of various handlings by finish processing and (2) mechanism of generation of itchy feeling acting as the hindrance of a comfortable clothing life and establishment of its objective evaluation method. For the purpose of solution of these two subjects, the same fabrics were used and they were changed by 18 kinds of different physicochemical procedures, which come out 18 levels of fabric handlings ranging from very soft to very stiff. As for handlings of 18 kinds of fabrics, the items of Hand Value were calculated based on all of KES basic properties in terms of KES procedures. Solution of these subjects is also connected with a high level of fabric finishing technology. On the other hand, one of the authors is an expert in fabric finish processing, and has been sure of itchy feeling of fabrics being closely connected with the hardness of fabrics from many years of experience. The degrees of itchy feeling for 18 kinds of fabric were judged by 50 evaluators of different ages and occupations, in terms of five ranks of evaluation method beforehand. As a result, itchy feeling had a high correlation with shear properties and Koshi, and had a negative high correlation with Numeri. It was confirmed that that itchy feeling could be evaluated by objective data of KES properties in terms of KES procedure.
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