Continuities and changes of Kamakhya at Nīlācala: A geo-heritage and geo-tourism perspective

Abstract

The present paper tries to unearth new insights for understanding the importance of Kamakhya. While doing so, significant emphasis has been laid on empirical research methods. The findings have been put in tune with the existing historical narratives to bring out crucial points regarding the practices of worship of the goddess at the Kamakhya temple. Through this process the paper seeks to understand the critical connection of tantra to the ancient land of Kamarupa. Secondly, it looks into the indigenous ingredients of modes of worship that had shaped this unique goddess and her cult. Thirdly, the paper traces the rich history of pilgrimage to the Kamakhya pith, though the entire historical process of pilgrimage is hard to determine, at least from the last two years of oral records have been consulted, to draw a linkage with the present day impact of the temple on the pilgrims and the tourists. Lastly, but not the least, the temple has been discussed as a geographical site of importance rather than a religious or historical site. As for the method applied, unstructured interview was conducted keeping the objectives of the study in consideration. The interviewees were purposively selected keeping in view the fact that they are residing in Nilaćala hills for generations together or actively involved in temple administration. The objective was to probe information regarding geo-heritage of the temple hitherto unknown. Our engagement with the study has enabled us to uncover the untold and unheard narratives. Foremost, we found that the very hill where the temple is situated has been associated with development of a community of dwellers, commonly referred to as Pandas, belonging primarily to Brahmin caste. Their history of migration, their modes of livelihood and their association with the temple and the deity is found to be integral to the heritage of the site. Coming to the cult we found that both Vedic and Tantric modes are used for the worship. There is a mystical side to the deity which is often linked with the practice of tantra and her being the goddess of fertility. And, most importantly we found the traditions of the community living on the Nīlācala, the modes of worship of the deity and also of pilgrimage, have gone through certain changes while adapting to new socio-cultural practices. Yet, there are certain aspects which are still intact and carefully maintained for ages now.