Comparison of mechanical properties, hand and tailorability of wool blended fabrics for outerwear clothing

Abstract

The paper compares mechanical properties, hand and tailorability of the wool blended fabrics for outerwear clothing. The fabrics in plain and twill weave of identical fibre composition, and identical warp and weft count were tested on KESF-B instruments for fabric objective evaluation under small loads. Mechanical properties of plain and twill weave fabric shows difference in bending, shearing and surface properties. The plain weave fabric has higher shearing strength and surface roughness than twill weave. Twill weave obtains higher bending strength, bending hysteresis and compression energy. The difference in selected primary hands and total hand greatly influenced selection of fabrics for summer or winter suits. Both investigated fabrics showed similar sewability performance, having same parameters of tailorability chart out of control zone.