Abstract

Abstract Hemp (Cannabis sativaL.) and nettle (Urtica dioicaL.) are both attractive candidates for high fibre yields with little or no biocide requirement. Separation of fibre fine enough for quality yarns to make hemp fabric or blends has been achieved in Western Europe in the last decades only on a laboratory scale because process costs are high. In Hungary, Romania, the Ukraine and Poland a hemp processing industry has continued retting mainly by water processes. Search for a commercially and environmentally viable method led us also to explore enzymatic separation, which was initiated by various researchers in the late 1960s and 1970s. This involves the use of various enzymes that dissolve pectin and hemicellulose between the cell walls thus freeing the fibre bundles and fibres. We tested various commercial and non commercial products (Röhm Enzyme GmbH and Novozymes AS/Bayer AG) and methods and then measured our results against samples of fibre separated by other methods using a Stelometer to determine tensile strength of fibre bundle collectives and OFDA (Optical Fiber Diameter Analyzer) to analyze fibre bundle width. Our results showed enzymatic separation capable of producing comparably fine and strong fibre suitable for quality textiles. These studies open the way for sustainable and local production of high value fibre with low impact on the environment.

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