Abstract
(1) Background: Today’s elite alpinists target K2 and Everest in midwinter. This study aimed to asses and compare weather at the summits of both peaks in the climbing season (Everest, May; K2, July) and the midwinter season (January and February). (2) Methods: We assessed environmental conditions using the ERA5 dataset (1979–2019). Analyses examined barometric pressure (BP), temperature (Temp), wind speed (Wind), perceived altitude (Alt), maximal oxygen uptake (VO2max), vertical climbing speed (Speed), wind chill equivalent temperature (WCT), and facial frostbite time (FFT). (3) Results: Most climbing-season parameters were found to be more severe (p < 0.05) on Everest than on K2: BP (333 ± 1 vs. 347 ± 1 hPa), Alt (8925 ± 20 vs. 8640 ± 20 m), VO2max (16.2 ± 0.1 vs. 17.8 ± 0.1 ml·kg−1·min−1), Speed (190 ± 2 vs. 223 ± 2 m·h−1), Temp (−26 ± 1 vs. −21 ± 1°C), WCT (−45 ± 2 vs. −37 ± 2 °C), and FFT (6 ± 1 vs. 11 ± 2 min). Wind was found to be similar (16 ± 3 vs. 15 ± 3 m·s−1). Most midwinter parameters were found to be worse (p < 0.05) on Everest vs. K2: BP (324 ± 2 vs. 326 ± 2 hPa), Alt (9134 ± 40 vs. 9095 ± 48 m), VO2max (15.1 ± 0.2 vs. 15.3 ± 0.3 ml·kg−1·min−1), Speed (165 ± 5 vs. 170 ± 6 m·h−1), Wind (41 ± 6 vs. 27 ± 4 m·s−1), and FFT (<1 min vs. 1 min). Everest’s Temp of −36 ± 2 °C and WCT −66 ± 3 °C were found to be less extreme than K2’s Temp of −45 ± 1 °C and WCT −76 ± 2 °C. (4) Conclusions: Everest presents more extreme conditions in the climbing and midwinter seasons than K2. K2’s 8° higher latitude makes its midwinter BP similar and Temp lower than Everest’s. K2’s midwinter conditions are more severe than Everest’s in the climbing season.
Highlights
Our primary source of meteorological conditions was the ERA5 Reanalysis, a state-of-theart database provided by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) [33]
The barometric pressure (BP) calculated for the climbing season corresponded with a perceived altitude (Alt) of 8925 m on Everest and 8640 m on K2 (285 m difference); see
Our results showed that climbing season wind chill equivalent temperature (WCT) and facial frostbite time (FFT) values are lower on Everest, but in midwinter, WCT is lower on K2 and FFT is shorter on Everest
Summary
The history of alpinism shows that the altitudes considered by one generation to be at the limit of human survival have been exceeded by the best climbers of succeeding generations [1]. Habeler achieved the final altitudinal limit of 8848 m Mount Everest (Everest) without supplemental oxygen [2,3]. Their ascent proved the thesis propounded in 1920 by Alexander Kellas, the pioneer of high-altitude physiology, that Everest could be ascended by humans of extreme physical and mental constitution
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