Abstract
Ikat is an ancient technique by which colored patterns are formed by tying and dyeing threads before they are woven. Ikat is an ancient resist dyeing technique in which the yarns are tied and dyed according to a specific pattern prior to weaving. This paper focuses on Atlas and Patola, the most famous ikat fabrics in China and India respectively as the research objects. The effort is to provide comparative analysis from the aspects of weaving technology, pattern style, composition characteristics and colors, based on literature and images. Although they are similar in production process, they have very different characteristics due to cultural background, religion, environment and aesthetic tastes of consumers and weavers. Both textiles showcase the local plants, flowers and colour preferences. Islam influences Atlas textiles and hence without animal and figurative pattern. Patola has different patterns for consumers from different religious following. Atlas and Patola are the fabrics of inheritance and represent two different regions and cultures.
Highlights
The ancient technique Ikat, whose name comes from Malay words meaning ‘to bind’, generally owns three different styles: warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat
There was no physical appearance, many scholars believed that ikat originated in India, and spread all over Asia and Europe along the land and sea routes (Okamura, 1984), while some scholars believed that ikat originated in Central Asia
Atlas and Patola are outstandingly beautiful ikat textiles of China and India. They use the same technique of tie and dye, they have different characteristics under the influence of different religions, cultural backgrounds, local people's living environment and aesthetic tastes
Summary
The ancient technique Ikat, whose name comes from Malay words meaning ‘to bind’, generally owns three different styles: warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat. The ikat fabrics are characterized by hazy or blurred edged patterns on the textiles due to the dye infiltration in the process of silk or cotton dyeing. These textiles are currently produced in Xinjiang and Hainan in China; Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh and Orissa in India; and in Japan, Uzbekistan and Southeast Asia. The ikat produced in Xinjiang, China, is more closely related to Central Asian ikat in terms of scale and colours. It should be spread from Central Asia (Zhao, 2019). Through the comparative study of the most famous ikat i.e Atlas from China and Patola from India, an effort is being made to understand the technology in both the regions and reference for the protection and development of ikat in both the countries
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